Indian embroideries has a wide variety of regional work and style. The various types of embroidery are state wise specialty like gold block print and gold embroidery know as gota–patti of Rajasthan. Kantha embroidery is of West Bengal, kashida or resham embroidery of Kashmir, etc.
The art of decoration of fabric or material with the use of needle, hand or sophisticated machines is called as embroidery. With evolving demands worldwide, embroideries are now even on accessories like bags, footwear, etc.
Some of the famous embroidery styles used in India on sarees, salwar kameez and lehengas are below:
Gota-Patti :
The metal embroidery of Rajasthan is known as gota work. Gota is a strip or ribbob of gold or silver woven on different fabrics like georgettes, chiffons, kotadoria , etc.
Artisans of Jaipur, Ajmer, Bikaner, Kota are famous for its real gota, i.e; real ribbon of gold and silver stitched on the fabric. With the change in demand, borders and laces of faux gota has also penetrated the market. It is widely used in traditional wear and ladies look for gotta work in sarees of bright colors as well as pastel shades. A bride’s trousseau is never complete without a gotapatti saree.
Zardozi Work:
Zardozi embroidery is also known as zari or tinsel embroidery. Zardozi involves threads of gold and silver color to make motifs and borders on heavy fabrics like velvet, georgette, net, etc. First the motif or design is drawn on a tracing sheet. After the drawing is complete the sheet is placed on a wooden frame called the “adda”. With the help of a wooden stick called the aari, the embroidery is completed.
Zardozi or Zurcan work is also popularly used by famous designers in Indian fashion, thus keeping its craze and demand very high for bridal and occasion wears.
Resham Embroidery :
Resham embroidery is the most common embellishment on Indian dresses like sari, salwar suits and lehengas.
Yarns and threads of colorful cotton or nylon are sewn through a needle to make patterns of designs of flowers,leaves, paisley or other motifs.
Indian tradition and culture is widely visible through its embroideries. There are various types of resham embroidery done on Indian clothing like Kashmiri, Kathiawar, Chikankari, Phulkari and Kantha work.
Kashmiri work is usually done on fabrics like silk, wool or cotton usually off white, white or cream color as its base colour.
Also called as Kashida work, it is prominently visible on shawls, kurtas, carpets etc with the motifs of birds, flowers, fruits, etc.
Kathiawar embroidery originated in Gujarat with colorful resham embroidery and mirror work with popular motifs of flowers, peacock, elephant, trees, etc. This embroidery is used to embellish lehengas, skirts, cholis, wall hangings, mojadis, etc.
Chikankari Embroidery originated in Lucknow. It is beautiful and elegant embroidery with subtle and intricate design. It is usually crafted on light fabrics like cotton, linen, chiffon, etc which is adored in summers. The lucknowi chikankurta, dupatta, salwar kameez are loved worldwide.
Phulkari Embroidery is majorly done in the states of Punjab and Haryana. The name defines the embroidery itself. “Phul” means flower and “kari” means work. It is an embroidery where the work takes shape all over the cloth with bright threads. It is a must have for a Punjabi bride in her pheras for the wedding.
Kantha work originates from Bengal. It is usually done on soft fabrics with colorful threads in small gaps. Its motifs are mainly flowers, animals and birds. Kantha work is also popular in bed sheets, curtains, and upholstery apart from sarees and dress materials.
Kundan Work:
Kundan embroidery is royally originated from Rajasthan and Gujarat. Its richness is usually crafted on rich fabrics using gold, silver threads, gemstones and pearls studded on it. Special craftsman can do this embroidery with the help of glue and thread.
It is popularly used on heavy occasion wear for brides in lehenga cholis and sarees. It is suggested to keep kundan work attires wrapped in velvet or muslin cloth for its durability.
It is also loved by our leading fashion designers like Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Anamika Khanna in India for bridal wear.
